I’ve been working on my house lately. Also, I’ve been making some basic things. I’ve made 4 long-sleeve tshirts and a fleece jacket. But I’m back now and I want to finish writing about my tweed jacket. I love it. I’ve worn it. It is perfect! There are 2 subjects to discuss – lining and finishing. Today, I’m going to describe my method for inserting lining. I am always so pleased with my lining. I always use this method and I recommend it 100%. Here goes:

You might remember that I quilted long lines of topstitching to mount the tweed to the lining. It helped to stabilize the tweed. If I had not done that (and very few fabrics actually need it), I would have started by placing the wrong side of the lining to the wrong side of the fabric. I always start center back. I make columns of diagonal basting stitches starting very close to the top and working down towards the bottom, but stopping a few inches short. Then I add more columns, spacing the columns a few inches apart, until I have probably 5 columns of diagonal basting stitches. I’ve saved some space at the bottom so that I can make the hem. Now I’m sure that the drape of the lining will be correct.

Still working on the back piece, I use a running stitch to mount the seam allowances of the garment to the lining together.

This is the back piece. The quilting lines are shown as well as the running stitch at the collar seam. The running stitch will soon be covered.

I make sure the running stitch is on the far side of the seam, so that when I go to mount more lining pieces, I will cover these stitches.

The next pieces are the fronts. I use the diagonal basting stitch as I did for the back piece, making columns of stitching starting very near the top and stopping a few inches above the bottom. Then I turn the seam allowance under so that it comes right to the seams. I usually line all the way to the opening edge, so I turned under at the opening edge too. At the collar, I can use a running stitch because later I will cover it up. But on the side seams, shoulder seam and front edge, it is the final layer, so I use a blind stitch. Small stitch – 6 to 8 stitches per inch. I don’t want to see any gaps between stitches.

Next, I do the collar, using the same method. And this will be the final layer, so the blind stitch is the best stitch to use. These next photos show the process of mounting lining, using the collar as an example.

Step 1: Pin the collar lining to the collar.
Step 2: Diagonal basting stitch through the center.
Step 3: Turn under the edes. Note that at the collar top edge, I leave a small turn of the tweed fabric, about 1/8th inch. The collar bottom covers the previous running stitch. All edges have a basting stitch – a long running stitch.

Next are the sleeves. I started with the diagonal basting stitch again, followed by the mounting to the seam allowances. Then I did a blind stitch at the shoulder.

This is the top of the sleeve, as mounted to the lining. I used a small blind stitch.

Lastly are the jacket and sleeve hems. I turn under a seam allowance and pin that to the edge of the turned under hem. Then I make sure that the hem will not hang out of the jacket by finger pressing the hem down. I trim off some length if needed because I want the lining to fall about 1/2 inch short of the garment hemline.

This is the lining mounted to the front edge and the bottom of the garment. See the fold above to allow the lining to move a bit when it is worn.

First I sewed the lining at the garment hem. Then I folded it down and sewed the front edge. I continued with the blind stitch.

This photo shows mounting the front lining to the back at the bottom of the side seam. First I sewed the bottom edge and then finished the side seams.

I look at all of these steps and it seems complicated and involved. Honestly, I enjoyed the heck out of it. Yes, it’s a lot of hand sewing. And yes, it takes a while to do. But this fabric was so easy to sew that when I finished, I was looking for where I needed to sew next and when I couldn’t find anything more to sew, I was surprised. It was a pleasure all the way.

More to come – finishing.

Published by Peg Jarrott

I'm a lifelong student of the art of sewing. It satisfies my creative urge. I've studied with Claire Shaeffer in Palm Springs. I respect her ability and her attention to detail, especially in planning, and they are the basis of my thinking now. I have also studied in Paris, the 6th arrondissement, at the Paris American Academy. I learned from top professionals from design houses around Paris - Yves St. Laurent and Chanel, to name two. There, I improved my tailoring techniques and received an introduction to draping. These experiences transformed both me and my sewing. I'm still a hobbyist, but my goal in every sewing project is to make the best quality garment that I can imagine, plan, and execute. And that is my definition of "couture" - a well-planned and well-executed garment - starting with the concept and planning of each detail and then executing it to my best ability. And most of the time, it works....!

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