Weight and Balance

Today I’m thinking about the look of my jacket. First, I see that there is waviness in the weave at the bustline. And I think I can at least partially fix that with additional stabilization. But it could be that what I really need to consider is weight and balance. Here are photos of the front and back of the jacket. Lining is still hanging out. It has not been applied yet.

Note wavy lines in tweed at bustline.
The back hangs fairly evenly.

I am looking to have the jacket slip on and off like a dream. I want to be able to wear anything under it, wear it open or closed, and have everything hang straight, as if that was the natural order of things. I see problems. The lining is not applied yet, and I know that will improve the overall look of the jacket. But the major issue is the waviness in the front. The jacket has that waviness because the front of the jacket weighs more than the back. It hangs forward too much. No surprise – the front edges overlap, there are pockets and they are lined, and there will be buttons and snaps that add weight too. Of course it weighs more, and there is nothing on the back.

Sewing in the lining will definitely help the weight. It always does. Lining transforms the mundane to the ethereal. Lining should get rid of the waviness in the back hem too. Especially if it is sewn in by hand to all of the seam and hem allowances, which I did, after these photos. It adds the weight I love to see and feel in my garments.

I think I will need to sew chain to the back hem. That will add weight to the back where it is needed. I’m hoping that this will encourage the jacket to hang evenly – balancing the weight of the fronts to the back. I have a heavy chain and a light chain – in this case, I think the heavier chain will do the job. And I will continue to keep a lookout for balance as I go along, as it plays a very important role in the success of my jacket. More to come including how I sew in chain. For now, I’ll take it one step at a time – next is lining.

Published by Peg Jarrott

I'm a lifelong student of the art of sewing. It satisfies my creative urge. I've studied with Claire Shaeffer in Palm Springs. I respect her ability and her attention to detail, especially in planning, and they are the basis of my thinking now. I have also studied in Paris, the 6th arrondissement, at the Paris American Academy. I learned from top professionals from design houses around Paris - Yves St. Laurent and Chanel, to name two. There, I improved my tailoring techniques and received an introduction to draping. These experiences transformed both me and my sewing. I'm still a hobbyist, but my goal in every sewing project is to make the best quality garment that I can imagine, plan, and execute. And that is my definition of "couture" - a well-planned and well-executed garment - starting with the concept and planning of each detail and then executing it to my best ability. And most of the time, it works....!

3 thoughts on “Weight and Balance

  1. You are giving me a much greater understanding of how complicated the problems are that you have had to overcome in all of the beautiful things you have created over the years. I hope others who follow your blog realize that this is great stuff especially if you love to sew or you appreciate beautiful clothing. Len

    Like

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