Tweed Collar

Today I want to discuss the collar. My goal is for the standing collar stand up, not flop over. I want strength to make it stand up and flexibility to make it go smoothly around my neck. First, I decided to double the interfacing which will make it strong. But I also I cut the interfacing on the bias so that it will be flexible. Next I trimmed away the interfacing from the seam allowance to reduce bulk in the seam.

This is the wrong side of the collar – 2 layers of interfacing lightly pinned to the collar
Next step was to diagonally baste the interfacings to the collar.
This is the collar, still basted, trimmed to clear the seam allowance. I did a catch stitch to attach the interfacing at the edges. The collar edges were already stabilized from when I cut it out.

I am planning to line the collar, and the rest of the garment, to the edge. Silk charmeuse will be lots more comfortable on my neck than the wood tweed. For now, I stitched the collar to the jacket and turned in the edges

This is the wrong side of the collar, all seam allowances turned in with catch stitch. Corners mitered.

I trimmed the underside of the tweed seam allowances to reduce bulk. I was careful not to trim too closely to the fold, for maintaining the stablization.

I think the collar is good and it will get even better with the additional stabilization that the silk charmeuse will offer.

Have a great day! Send comments or observations!

Take care,

Peg

Published by Peg Jarrott

I'm a lifelong student of the art of sewing. It satisfies my creative urge. I've studied with Claire Shaeffer in Palm Springs. I respect her ability and her attention to detail, especially in planning, and they are the basis of my thinking now. I have also studied in Paris, the 6th arrondissement, at the Paris American Academy. I learned from top professionals from design houses around Paris - Yves St. Laurent and Chanel, to name two. There, I improved my tailoring techniques and received an introduction to draping. These experiences transformed both me and my sewing. I'm still a hobbyist, but my goal in every sewing project is to make the best quality garment that I can imagine, plan, and execute. And that is my definition of "couture" - a well-planned and well-executed garment - starting with the concept and planning of each detail and then executing it to my best ability. And most of the time, it works....!

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