Tweed

My latest project is a real thinker. You’ll see why in the picture below. It’s a loose tweed with rich, deep colors of olive, rose, white, grey, and more.

It’s heavy and wants to sag. It’s a perfect challenge. The most useful style for me is an overcoat. Something without a lot of detail, no darts that would add thickness. And I’m a casual person. With some elegance too. I prefer an unstructured look generally. Soft. So that’s my goal here. I picked a jacket that I’ve made before. Usually I’ve made it with structured fabrics, so this will be different. But at least I’m confident with the fit.

My tweed fabric from B & J Fabrics, New York
My Butterick Pattern, I’ve used it for years. View A

What steps should I take to make this fabric hold it’s shape and yet be casual, relaxed?

Today, I’m thinking about how to cut the pattern pieces. I am worried that the threads will unravel. But how fast? If It will hold for even a few minutes, I can cut it out one piece at a time, going immediately to the serger to finish the edges. If it won’t hold at all, I need to thread mark the pattern pieces and cut at least 2 inches larger. Then I can serge the too large edges. I did an experiment – I cut a small piece and looked at the edges. Although it was obvious that it wanted to unravel, it was holding its shape enough to get to the serger and finish the edges. So I cut piece by piece, serging each piece as I went along.

I could have used the selvage as a trim, but looking at it, I didn’t think it was interesting enough to do that. Sometime we can discuss what would be entailed in doing that. It’s fun to add trim from the fabric, and not hard, just time-consuming. Here’s a photo of the selvage. For now, take a look, I think you’ll agree.

The selvage of my tweed fabric

There are so many more things to discuss. Be back soon. Thanks for reading and I welcome input.

Peg

Published by Peg Jarrott

I'm a lifelong student of the art of sewing. It satisfies my creative urge. I've studied with Claire Shaeffer in Palm Springs. I respect her ability and her attention to detail, especially in planning, and they are the basis of my thinking now. I have also studied in Paris, the 6th arrondissement, at the Paris American Academy. I learned from top professionals from design houses around Paris - Yves St. Laurent and Chanel, to name two. There, I improved my tailoring techniques and received an introduction to draping. These experiences transformed both me and my sewing. I'm still a hobbyist, but my goal in every sewing project is to make the best quality garment that I can imagine, plan, and execute. And that is my definition of "couture" - a well-planned and well-executed garment - starting with the concept and planning of each detail and then executing it to my best ability. And most of the time, it works....!

One thought on “Tweed

  1. I’m so proud of you. This is wonderful and very well written with great information for your audience. I’m going to make sure this gets around to all the sewing ladies at Trilogy. I can see you in the future coming up here to give a talk to these ladies. Blanche will help me get the word out. Good going Sweet Pea.

    Liked by 1 person

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